Spring is a season of surprises. Suddenly the asparagus appear, next it’s delicate peas, tender lettuces and fistfuls of fresh herbs.

Week after week, the farmers markets offer increasing bounty to tempt and delight. I’ll bring these market staples home to round out a meal: farmstead beef, chicken, pork, lamb and an array of locally grown wild mushrooms — oyster, shiitake, maitake and my favorite, dark brown chestnut mushrooms, with tight, firm caps.

Mushrooms are one of the best plant proteins. With their rich, deep umami flavor and dense texture, they make a wonderful alternative to meat. Mushrooms grow miraculously in almost nothing — rotting logs, decaying leaves, sawdust. Neither vegetable, fruit nor animal, they defy culinary categories, and are unappetizingly identified as “gilled fungi.”

Mushrooms contain about 2 grams of protein per cup, with nine essential amino acids, making them a “complete protein.” They are packed with vitamins D and B, as well as minerals. Low in calories and carbohydrates, wild mushrooms are now being cultivated and sold locally in our farmers markets, grocery stores and co-ops.

A mess of different mushrooms make a delicious larb, the dish of northern Thailand (also sometimes spelled laab, laap, larp or lahb). It’s traditionally made with minced or ground and cooked pork tossed in a punchy lime-soy vinaigrette. Here, a variety of roasted local mushrooms replace pork in a vegan version of larb.

Traditional recipes call for finishing the plate with toasted rice powder, but, for reasons of speed, I’ve opted for chopped peanuts to add depth and a satisfying crunch. Serve the larb wrapped in a tender lettuce leaf garnished with sliced scallions — or even better, local green garlic for more kick.

Roast Mushroom Larb

Serves 4 to 6.

This dish, ready in minutes, relies on the wild mushroom varieties you’ll find in our farmers markets, co-ops and grocery stores. If they’re packaged in plastic when you buy them, be sure to remove and transfer mushrooms to a paper bag, then store in the refrigerator for no more than a few days. Wrap the larb in lettuce leaves and serve with a side of herbed rice. From Beth Dooley.

2 lb. mixed mushrooms (oyster, shiitake, maitake, chestnut, cremini, button), trimmed and cut into ½-in. pieces

¼ c. vegetable oil

Coarse salt

2 to 3 tbsp. lime juice

1 tbsp. honey

2 tbsp. soy sauce

1 clove garlic, minced

Generous pinch, red-pepper flakes, to taste

¼ c. sliced scallions

¼ c. sliced snap peas, plus more for garnish

½ c. coarsely chopped mint leaves

½ c. coarsely chopped basil

¼ c. finely chopped unsalted toasted peanuts

Lettuce leaves, for wrapping

Steamed rice, optional for serving

Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish

Directions

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Spread the mushrooms out on the baking sheet. Drizzle them with a little of the oil and sprinkle lightly with the salt; using your fingers, toss to coat. Roast, turning the pan occasionally, until the mushrooms are brown and crisp, about 25 minutes.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the remaining oil, lime juice, honey, soy sauce, garlic and red pepper flakes. Transfer the mushrooms to the bowl and toss to coat with the dressing. Toss in the scallions, snap peas, mint, basil and peanuts. Serve the larb in lettuce leaves and steamed rice, if using. Garnish the larb with sliced pea pods and sprinkle chopped parsley overall.

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Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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